As a big fan of the bock style, I get really excited when I get a chance to try a new one. Germans are the bock champions, which means I pay an import premium for my favorite beers. Therefore, I get doubly excited when I get to sample a new bock from a reputable US brewery. So imagine my excitement when I discovered a new bock being brewed just down the street from me. You might say I was a bit giddy to sit down and try the Goat Bullock Bock from Bull City Burger and Brewery in Durham, NC.

In the glass, Goat Bullock has a beautiful rich coppery sienna color with high clarity. The aroma is very malty with lots of caramel notes. I also found a strong toasted bread quality resting just underneath the malt. As traditional bocks go, it's right on the money.

That first taste had me both excited and dismayed. My excitement came from the fact that this bock embraces a hoppy character that compliments the beer beautifully. My dismay came from the fact that it is very atypical for the style and I will have to ding it as a critic. These are the moments when I hate being a critic. I can't say enough good things about this beer, but I have to compare it to the rest of the bock spectrum.

After savoring an unexpected hop profile, many roasted qualities started to emerge. There is a dry roast note that appears on both the flavor train and mouthfeel, which provides a very interesting counterweight to the hops. As the beer warms, this roasted character takes the form of a sweetened maltiness. The flavor train is quite complex and is a lot of fun to study. The hop profile resides up front, which transforms into a rich and smooth malt in the middle, then finally exits as a roasted flavor with a twinge of bitterness. I should also note that the caramel notes emerge with a vengeance once the beer starts to warm. They are quite prominent, but never out of balance.

Overall, the Goat Bullock Bock from Bull City Burger and Brewery is a delicious brew that I can recommend to any level of beer fan. Novices might find it to be on the hoppy side, especially if expecting a baseline bock. Luckily the beer remains highly drinkable and the hops aren't too distracting. Seasoned beer drinkers will find Goat Bullock to be a delightful interpretation of the traditional bock style. The front-loaded hop profile provides an edgy and well balanced compliment to the malty character, which transforms this beer into something new and exciting. While I can't score Goat Bullock as a stellar bock, I can certainly tell everyone to get their asses down to BCBB and enjoy a pint.