What is it about that little fellow that adorns all the bottles of Stone Brewing Company's offerings that seems to get me every time? Is it that wicked grin that he flashes without conscious? Maybe. How about the way he doesn't so much seem to be guarding the beer as much as he seems to be saying ''I have mine. Now where is yours?''. That might be it too. But the most probable reason I can't resist any bottle that he calls home is because I have learned to equate his image to big, bold, imaginative, and beautiful beers. A great example of this perceived level of excellence translating perfectly to real world enjoyment is the 2012 edition of the Stone Old Guardian Barley Wine.

When poured, the Old Guardian takes on an aged copper coloration with just a few yeasty floaters, and some faint glimmers of a burnt orange hue at the most extreme edges. Two fingers worth of a fluffy tan head forms from an aggressive pour, but after some settling time only a spotty film and ring around the edges of the glass remain. Getting your nose close might lead to a moments pause if you are a fan of Stone Brewing, but not in a bad way. While we have all grown accustom to their unapologetic nasal hops assaults, this one seems to have a more subdued hop profile and a more prominent malt presence. The aromas that are instantly noticeable are grapefruit, rich toffee, and an unmistakable alcohol burn. Upon giving it a few moments to warm, more lighter notes of caramel, dark plums, fresh cut grass, pine resin, and sweet yeast become apparent.

After taking in the full nasal bouquet, one can expect little blame if they were to dive face first into their glass. The flavors that await are just as inviting as the nose. An initial greeting of rich and bold malts awaits, and they make themselves known in the form of sweet caramel and toffee, with the occasional sweet yeast flavor mixing in to keep things interesting. The transition from the malt layer to the hops layer is both aggressive and balanced. Things seem to blend very fast, and then separate just as quickly. The grapefruit flavor is what you notice at first, but it is subdued very nicely by its willingness to dance with the toffee flavor for an extended amount of time, and that translates into a well pronounced flavor with little sting on the tongue. After that, things flow into a more normal hops profile, with the pine resin providing a bit of a pinch on the tongue, and in the end there is a pleasant alcohol burn on the tongue that closely resembles a boozy bourbon sting.

I know plenty of people preach the good word of Stone Brewing Company, and I highly doubt they need me to try to work my way into their overbooked pulpit, but this is one of those times where I would gladly stand on an empty street corner to spread the good word about their great beer. Granted, the Old Guardian Barley Wine isn't for everyone, but that isn't what this is all about. Those new to the better beer world need to view beers like it as finish line beers. Until you have a well honed palate, you cannot fully appreciate it for what it is. But once you have paid your dues, it's beers like the Old Guardian that you start to look forward to each year. You watch your calendar to make sure you don't miss its release, and when it is released, you grab 2. One to have as soon as possible, and one to have on a special occasion that you will always want to remember.