Although I'm quite an experienced drinker, I'm a novice beer reviewer. For most of my drinking life, I've evaluated all varieties of booze without much critical thought -- either I like it or I don't.

And mmmmmmm... I do like Angry Angel. For starters, I love its delightfully alliterative paradoxical name and the label's retro graphics. The beer itself is quite pretty, as well... a light bubbly kolsch with a foamy head. As I remarked to my friend at lunch, ''She looks blonde enough to get lost in a shoe box.'' And she goes down just as easy.

I detected an initial whiff of... was it pear...? ...or maybe apricot...? Something light and fruity. So I expected a sweet first sip, similar to cider, perhaps. Instead, a mild nip of malt gave way to a surprising bite on the tongue. Significantly carbonated, this yummy microbrew left behind a pleasant tingle in my nostrils and absolutely no aftertaste.

Its crisp, refreshing taste makes Angry Angel a perfect summer brew. Also, its modest flavor makes it a good match for a meal, as it will not overpower the flavor of food. And it's light enough that the drinker can enjoy several rounds without feeling terribly full.

If I have my way, this fair beauty and I will spend a lot more time together this spring.